Mount Monadnock

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This article is about the well-known mountain in the town of Jaffrey, New Hampshire. For other mountains with similar names, see Monadnock (disambiguation)
Mount Monadnock

Rocky plateau on summit of Mount Monadnock
Elevation 3,165 feet (965 m) [1]
Location Jaffrey / Dublin, Cheshire County, New Hampshire, USA
Range Central New England upland
Prominence 2,150 ft (660 m) [2]
Coordinates 42°51′40″N 72°6′30″W / 42.86111, -72.10833Coordinates: 42°51′40″N 72°6′30″W / 42.86111, -72.10833
Topo map USGS Monadnock Mountain Quadrangle
Type Monadnock; metamorphic rock
Age of rock 400 million years
First ascent Captain Samuel Willard, 1725 (first recorded).
Easiest route White Arrow Trail
Listing #33 New England Fifty Finest

Mount Monadnock, or Grand Monadnock, is the most prominent New England mountain peak south of the White Mountains and east of the Massachusetts Berkshires, and is the highest point in Cheshire County, New Hampshire. At 3,165 feet (965 m), it is nearly 1,000 feet (305 m) higher than any mountain peak within 30 miles and rises 2,000 feet (610 m) above the surrounding landscape. The term "monadnock" has come to be used by American geologists to describe any isolated mountain formed from the exposure of a harder rock as a result of the erosion of a softer rock that once surrounded it (a landform termed inselberg elsewhere in the world).

The mountain, 62 miles (100 km) northwest of Boston and 38 miles (61 km) southwest of Concord, is located within the towns of Jaffrey and Dublin, New Hampshire. The east side of the mountain drains into the Contoocook River, thence into the Merrimack River and the Atlantic Ocean; the north, south, and west sides into the Ashuelot River, thence into the Connecticut River and Long Island Sound.[3]

Monadnock's bare, isolated, and rocky summit provides expansive views. A number of hiking trails ascend the mountain, including the 110 miles (180 km) Metacomet-Monadnock Trail and the 50 miles (80 km) Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway.[3]

Contents

[edit] Origin of the name

The word "monadnock" is an Abenaki-derived word used to describe a mountain, although the exact meaning of the word (what kind of mountain) is uncertain. The term was adopted by early settlers of southern New Hampshire and later by American geologists as an alternative term for an inselberg or isolated mountain. Mount Monadnock is often called Grand Monadnock, to differentiate it from other Vermont and New Hampshire peaks with "Monadnock" in their names.[4]

[edit] History

[edit] The transcendentalists

Ralph Waldo Emerson
Ralph Waldo Emerson
Henry David Thoreau
Henry David Thoreau

Both Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau visited the mountain and wrote fondly of it. Emerson was a frequent visitor, and made the mountain the subject of "Monadnoc", one of his most famous poems. Thoreau visited the mountain four times between 1844 and 1860 and spent a great deal of time carefully observing and cataloging natural phenomenon. He is regarded as having written one of the first serious naturalist inventories of the mountain. A bog near the summit of Mount Monadnock and a rocky lookout off the Cliff Walk trail are named after him; another lookout is named after Emerson.[4]

[edit] The fires

Neither Thoreau nor Emerson had the opportunity to see the summit of Mount Monadnock the way that it appeared before the first European settlers arrived on its slopes to settle in 1746. The first major fire, set in 1800 to clear the lower slopes for pasture, swept through the stands of virgin red spruce that once nearly covered the summit and flanks of the mountain. Further fires and hurricane damage left the forests a tangle of fallen timber. Between 1810 and 1820, local farmers, who believed that wolves were denning in the blowdowns, set fire to the mountain again. The conflagration raged for weeks, destroying the topsoil and utterly denuding the mountain above 2,000 feet (610 m).[4]

[edit] The Halfway House and other structures

In 1858, Moses Cudworth of Rindge, New Hampshire, opened what he called The Half Way House on the south side of the mountain, roughly halfway from the base to the summit. The "Toll Road" was built to service it. By that time the popularity of the mountain was booming, and it was not long before Cudworth enlarged the hotel to accommodate 100 guests. On busy summer days, the stables at the Halfway House held as many as 75 horses. The Halfway House became public property when hundreds of residents of the nearby towns formed a coalition to buy the Toll Road and hotel and prevent a radio tower from being constructed on the summit. After the hotel burned down in 1954, a concession stand operated at the site until 1969 when it and the toll road were both closed to public vehicles. Moses Spring, with its source in a hole drilled through a rock behind the site, is one of the few remaining artifacts of the hotel years. [4]

A small firewarden's hut was located on the summit of Mount Monadnock and operated from 1911 to 1948, when it was decommissioned with the advent of modern means of detecting forest fires. The hut remained as a snack bar and hiker's shelter until 1969 and was removed in 1972. A small cabin, located farther down the mountain, served as the fire lookout's residence. It, too, is gone.[4]

A private dwelling, just a 100 feet (30 m) south of the site of the former Halfway House, is the last remaining inholding on the mountain above 1,000 feet (300 m).

[edit] Hiking history

The earliest recorded ascent of Mount Monadnock took place in 1725 by Captain Samuel Willard and fourteen rangers under his command who camped at the top and used the summit as a lookout while patrolling for Native Americans. Before the practice came to be frowned upon, many early hikers carved their names in the summit; the earliest such engraving reads "S. Dakin, 1801" and is attributed to a local town clerk.[4] Notable "power hiking" records include that of Gary Harrington who hiked to the summit sixteen times in a twenty-four hour period and Larry Davis who hiked to the summit every day for 2,850 consecutive days (8 years). [5][6]

Mount Monadnock is often described as the most hiked mountain in the United States as well as the second most hiked mountain in the world, with 125,000 hikers yearly,[4] behind only Mount Fuji in Japan, with about 200,000 yearly hikers. Bus routes that head part way up Mount Fuji opened in 1990, however, even from that base, each person who reaches the summit of Mount Fuji has climbed about 5,000 feet (1,500 m), more than twice the ascent of Mount Monadnock. As the majority of Mount Monadnock hikers ascend via the White Dot Trail or the White Arrow Trail, hikers who ascend via other routes (or during weekdays) are more apt to find solitude below the summit.[7][4][8]

[edit] Biogeography, ecology, and geology

The Mountain Cranberry thrives on Mount Monadnock
The Mountain Cranberry thrives on Mount Monadnock

Due to fires in the early 1800s which burned a majority of the top 300 feet (91 m) around the summit, there is little soil cover on the peak and surroundings upland. Although the mountain has recovered to the degree that its landscape appears natural, Mount Monadnock is an example of a mountain which has an artificial tree line, occurring well below the actual climatic tree line of similar mountains in the region.[9] From the base to the summit, floral species diminish with increasingly shallow soil levels. The summit is home to many different specialized sub-alpine species which can retain moisture for long periods of time. Alpine and sub-alpine species include mountain ash, cotton grass, sheep laurel, mountain sandwort, and the mountain cranberry. Krummholz, trees stunted by harsh weather, are found on Mount Monadnock, as are several alpine bogs. Lower elevations on Mount Monadnock are clad in northern hardwood forest species; middle elevations support stands of red spruce. Before the fires, Mount Monadnock was totally covered in a red spruce forest. Since the summit has been barren of soil cover, red spruce have been slowly ascending back towards the top in a process known as ecological succession.[4]

The mountain is largely composed of highly metamorphosed 400 million year old schist and quartzite rock associated with the Littleton Formation, a strata that extends south into Massachusetts and north into the White Mountains.[10] Dramatic metamorphic folds are visible on many of the rock faces of the mountain, as are sillimanite crystals. These crystals, normally needle thin, occur as four inch long "turkey track" shaped specimens on Mount Monadnock due to the intense pressure that created the rock.[4]

USGS seal on the summit.
USGS seal on the summit.

[edit] Hydrology

Mount Monadnock lies on the divide between the Connecticut River and Merrimack River watersheds. The northern slopes of the mountain drain to Howe Reservoir, then via Minnewawa Brook to the Ashuelot River, the Connecticut River, and ultimately Long Island Sound. Gleason Brook and Mountain Brook flow off the western slopes, then via Shaker Brook to the South Branch of the Ashuelot River. The southwestern slopes of the mountain drain to Fassett Brook, then Quarry Brook, before reaching the South Branch of the Ashuelot.

To the southeast of the mountain, Mead Brook and Stony Brook flow to Mountain Brook, a tributary of the Contoocook River, which flows to the Merrimack River and ultimately the Gulf of Maine. The eastern slopes of the mountain drain to Thorndike Pond, the outlet of which (Stanley Brook) flows northeast to Nubanusit Brook, then into the Contoocook and the Merrimack.[11]

[edit] Recreation

Mount Monadnock is open to hiking, backpacking, picnicking, and snowshoeing. Backcountry skiing is possible on some of the lower trails. A seasonal campground on the southeast side of the mountain is maintained by the state of New Hampshire, however, camping is not allowed anywhere else on the mountain. A per-person fee is charged (in season) to park at the Old Toll Road and State Park Headquarters trailheads. There are no roads to the summit, and the Old Toll Road, which leads to the Halfway House site, is closed to vehicles. ATVs are not allowed on the mountain.[12] Good views of the mountain can be had from a number of regional roads and highways, especially from New Hampshire Route 124.

[edit] Trails

Mount Monadnock is criss-crossed by many miles of well-maintained hiking trails. The most popular trails are the White Dot Trail, 2 miles (3.2 km), the shortest but steepest ascent, accessible from the Monadnock State Park headquarters and campground on the southeast side of the mountain; and the White Arrow Trail, 2.3 miles (3.7 km) to summit, considered the easiest ascent, via the Old Toll Road (Halfway House) trailhead on the south side of the mountain. Other major trails include:

  • The Marlboro Trail, on the west side of the mountain, 2.2 miles (3.5 km) to summit
  • The Dublin Path, also part of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway, on the north side 2.2 miles (3.5 km) to summit
  • The Pumpelly Trail, on the northeast side, the longest ascent, 4.4 miles (7.1 km) to summit
  • Access from the east side of the mountain is provided by the Birchtoft Trail (Gilson Pond trailhead) and several connecting trails to the summit.
Mount Monadnock from Franklin Pierce College
Mount Monadnock from Franklin Pierce College

Other important trails include the White Cross Trail, an alternative parallel to the White Dot Trail, and the Cliff Walk, a scenic detour that shadows a ledge to the east of the White Arrow Trail.[4] The 110 miles (180 km) Metacomet-Monadnock Trail ascends the mountain from the southwest; however, there is no trailhead where that trail crosses Route 124 at the foot of the mountain, and the highway there is marked with "no parking" signs.[13]

An important long distance trail nexus, Mount Monadnock is the northern terminus of the Metacomet-Monadnock Trail, a long-distance hiking trail stretching south through Massachusetts to the Connecticut border.[14] The mountain is also the southern terminus of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway, a 50 miles (80 km) highland trail connecting Mount Monadnock and Mount Sunapee.[4] A third long distance trail project, the Wantastiquet-Monadnock Greenway, aims at linking Mount Monadnock with Pisgah State Park and Wantastiquet Mountain, a prominent peak in Hinsdale, New Hampshire, overlooking the town of Brattleboro, Vermont, and the Connecticut River.[15]

[edit] Hiking the mountain

The four hour round trip to the summit and back via one of the shorter trails is considered moderately challenging for the average hiker but requires no technical skills during the late spring to early fall season. Wind and weather on the exposed, rocky summit is usually harsher than below, year round; winter storms and summer thunderstorms can be life-threatening. Winter snow and ice can linger on the trails well into May, making hiking hazardous or impossible without special equipment. The compacting of snow due to winter recreation on the more frequently used trails tends to lengthen the time it takes for the snow and ice to melt off. Stabilizers, crampons, ice axes, ski poles, and snowshoes may be helpful or necessary for winter and early spring ascents depending on ice and snow cover. Fall hiking requires warmer clothing, an awareness of weather conditions, and earlier ascent times. As there are few reliable water sources and there is no shelter from the sun on the upper half of the mountain, dehydration and heat stroke are summer hiking hazards. Poison ivy does not grow on Mount Monadnock, and venomous snakes do not inhabit it. The mountain and surrounding area are black bear habitat, although problem encounters with bears are rare.[16][4]

Advice on hiking can be solicited in-season (Memorial Day through Columbus Day and select off-season weekends) at the park headquarters on the southeast side of the mountain. Trail descriptions and maps of Mount Monadnock are published by a variety of commercial and non-commercial sources. The Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests prints a complete guidebook with maps, trail descriptions, history, geology, ecology, and other trivia on the mountain.[4]

A 360° view from the top of Mount Monadnock.
A 360° view from the top of Mount Monadnock.

[edit] Conservation

Most of the mountain has been protected and is not subject to development. Ownership of the mountain is a patchwork of protected lands: some of the mountain is within the 5,000 acre (20 km²) Monadnock State Park, while other portions are owned by the Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests or the town of Jaffrey.[17]

In 2000, the Metacomet-Monadnock Trail was included in a study by the National Park Service for possible inclusion in a new National Scenic Trail, now tentatively called the New England National Scenic Trail, which would also include the Mattabesett and Metacomet trails in Connecticut, giving it some of the status accorded to the Appalachian Trail. However, there seems to be some uncertainty whether or not the New Hampshire section of the Metacomet-Monadnock Trial will be included in the final NST designation.[18]

[edit] Artistic tributes

Mount Monadnock as painted by Richard Whitney in the painting Monadnock Orchard
Mount Monadnock as painted by Richard Whitney in the painting Monadnock Orchard

Beside Emerson and Thoreau, other artists and writers have been inspired by Mount Monadnock, including:

  • The American composer Alan Hovhaness (1911–2000), who climbed Mount Monadnock several times during his youth, composed a symphonic fantasy entitled Monadnock, Op. 2, around 1935.
  • Early 20th century horror fiction writer H.P. Lovecraft wrote a poem about the mountain entitled To Templeton and Mount Monadnock[19]
  • Pulitzer Prize winning poet Galway Kinnell wrote about the mountain in his poem Flower Herding on Mount Monadnock.[20]
  • Part of the yearly Mount Monadnock Celebration of Dance takes place on the summit of Mount Monadnock at the autumn equinox; "nature-inspired contemporary dance" choreographed by award winning modern dance artist Diane Eno was the theme in 2006, and in 2007, for the festival's 20th anniversary[21]

[edit] Other nearby peaks named Monadnock

[edit] See also

[edit] References

  1. ^ Summit elevation between 960 and 966 m.
  2. ^ Key col elevation between 1,000 and 1,020 ft.
  3. ^ a b DeLorme Topo USA 6.0. (2006). Mapping software. Yarmouth, Maine:DeLorme.
  4. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n Baldwin, Henry I. (1989). Monadnock Guide 4th edition. Concord, New Hampshire:Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests.
  5. ^ Mount Monadnock.com Retrieved December 14, 2007
  6. ^ American Profile.com Retrieved December 14, 2007
  7. ^ Japan Guide.com. Retrieved December 15, 2007
  8. ^ Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide (1999). Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club.
  9. ^ Baldwin, Hernry I. The Induced Timberline of Mount Monadnock, N. H. Bulletin of the Torrey Botanical Club, Vol. 104, No. 4, pp. 324–333.
  10. ^ Raymo, Chet and Maureen E. Written in Stone: A Geologic History of the Northeastern United States. Globe Pequot, Chester, Connecticut, 1989.
  11. ^ Monadnock Mountain, New Hampshire, 7.5-minute topographic map series (1984). Washington: U.S. Geological Survey
  12. ^ Monadnock State Park New Hampshire Department of Conservation and Recreation. Retrieved December 10, 2007.
  13. ^ The Metacomet-Monadnock Trail Guide (1999). 9th edition. Amher4st, Massachusetts: Appalachian Mountain Club.
  14. ^ Henry Baldwin's Monadnock Guide (see ref.#3) incorrectly states that the Metacomet-Monadnock Trail runs from Mount Monadnock to Meriden, Connecticut, confusing it with the Metacomet Trail.
  15. ^ Chesterfield Outdoors.com Retrieved December 12, 2007.
  16. ^ Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, 1995.
  17. ^ GRANIT Data Mapper University of New Hampshire. Retrieved February 18, 2008.
  18. ^ MMM National Scenic Trail. National Park Service. Retrieved December 12, 2007.
  19. ^ Monadnock.com. Retrieved December 15, 2007.
  20. ^ Norton Anthology of Modern Poetry 2nd edition, (1988). New York: Norton.
  21. ^ Fusion Danceworks Retrieved December 15, 2007.

[edit] External links

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