Miniature figure (gaming)

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Miniatures of Thrud the Barbarian produced during the 1980s by Citadel Miniatures
Miniatures of Thrud the Barbarian produced during the 1980s by Citadel Miniatures

A miniature figure (also known as a miniature or just a mini) is a small figurine commonly used in miniature wargames such as Heroclix, Mage Knight, and Warhammer. Some role-playing games can be played with them, as miniatures can help players to visualize factors that affect combat, such as which way each character is facing, who's fighting whom, line of sight issues, and so on. Some miniatures are superbly sculpted and are collectible in their own right.

The hobby of painting, collecting, and gaming with miniatures is descended from the toy soldier hobby. Traditionally, "toy soldiers" are sold pre-painted, and miniatures are sold "bare" and require painting. This distinction is blurring with the recent introduction of pre-painted plastic figures, such as those used in Clix games.

Contents

[edit] Materials

Miniatures have most commonly been cast in white metal (an alloy of lead and tin, with a small amount of antimony, which improves the alloy's ability to take fine detail). Because of the high lead content, minis were sometimes called lead figures.

In 1993, the New York legislature nearly passed a bill outlawing lead in miniatures, citing public health concerns. Many miniatures manufacturers, anticipating that other states would follow with more bans, immediately began making miniatures with lead-free alloys, which often resulted in price increases.[1]

After nearly a year of debate (including protests by miniature manufacturers and enthusiasts), Governor Mario Cuomo signed a bill which exempted miniatures from the state's Public Health Law.[2] Still, most American manufacturers continued to use non-lead alloys.[3]

Some manufacturers offer plastic (polyethylene or hard polystyrene) minis; others offer resin (mostly polyurethane) minis.

Some war games use box miniatures, a simple cuboid made from folded card stock. Art work representing a view of each side of the subject is printed on the outside.

[edit] Scales

Before one major market for such miniatures, Great Britain, transferred to the metric system, sizes were given in fractions of inches. Although the United States still commonly doesn't use the metric system in many commercial areas, there is still the desire to use model military vehicles of the same scale as figures so as to avoid needless mismatch, so the use of metric sizing in the field of table-top wargaming has become prevalent.

Miniature figure scales are commonly expressed as the height of a six-foot (183 cm) figure. So 28 mm miniatures of human men are around 28 mm high. Women, children, dwarves, hobbits, etc. will be typically shorter than this; ogres, trolls, etc. taller.

Minis are available in various scales. 25 mm, 28 mm, 30 mm, and 35 mm are the most common for RPGs and other popular table-top games. Smaller minis—10 mm, 15 mm, and sometimes 20 mm—are also made for table-top wargaming, rather than RPGs. Mithril Miniatures uses an idiosyncratic 32 mm scale for its main range. And larger minis—54 mm and more—are made specifically for painters and collectors.

"25 mm" figures can range up to 33 mm or more (a 33% deviation). When some manufacturers began using a "28 mm" designation, many of their own figures were already well over 30 mm tall.

Some manufacturers take the proper measurement of figure height to be to the level of its eyes rather than the top of its head. Using this interpretation, a 6 ft (1.83 m) figure in 28 mm-scale would be 30 mm tall (if the eyes are about half-way up the head, and if the head is about two fifteenths of the height, then the height to the eyes is fourteen fifteenths of the full height). Because of this 15 mm is for instance interpreted as 1:100 by some and 1:120 by others.

Another thing to complicate the matter of scales is the issue of body proportions, which differ from company to company. If one takes a 30 mm figure from Games Workshop and compare it to the accurate scaled proportions of a real person, one sees that the figure has exaggerated proportions making it look much wider, with bigger features like the head, hands and weapons. Figures from other manufacturers display similar deviations. Some of these began as concessions to the limitations of primitive mould-making, but they have evolved to artistic and stylistic choices over the years.

Scale Scale foot Ratio Comments
2 mm 1:888 Useful for gaming in tight spaces or representing large forces. Popular scale for VSf play.
6.2 mm 1:285 The USA standard for large-scale historical armor battles. "Microarmor." Other genres such as ancients, fantasy, and sci-fi growing in popularity. The NATO/EU standard is the 5.92 mm 1/300 scale.
10 mm 1.667 mm 1:182.88 Newer scale, very popular for ancients and fantasy. 10mm sci-fi is an up and coming niche. Scale is roughly equal to N-scale railroad trains. Growing in popularity.
15 mm 2.5 mm 1:121.92 The most popular scale in use by historical wargamers playing in the Modern Period. Seldom used for RPGs.
20 mm 3.333 mm 1:91.44 Highly popular for WWII wargaming, as the figures are of the same scale (more or less) of 1:76 or 1:72 models (actually closer to 1:87 or 3.5 mm/ft which is HO model railroad scale). Seldom used for RPGs.
25/28mm 4.167 mm 1:73.152 Effectively a match for 1:76 (4 mm scale/00 gauge) and 1:72 models, but there is a wide upwards variation in figure height, even when not described as "Heroic 25 mm" or 28 mm. Most 28mm miniatures look more in scale with 1/48 or 1/50 scale vehicles when the figure's base is taken into account. This is the most common size, as 28mm is the size that Games Workshop uses.
30 mm 5 mm 1:60.96 Common for pre-1970s wargaming figures; modern minis may really be up to 35 mm. (Note: model railroad "S" scale is 1/64 which is close)
32 mm 5.333 mm 1:57.15 Idiosyncratic to Mithril: genuine 32 mm
35 mm 5.833 mm 1:52.251 Genuine 30 mm
54 mm 9 mm 1:33.867 Collectable figures, a good match for 1:35 models, but oversize 54 mm figures would fit better with 1:32 models. Plastic dollar-store Army Men are often sold at this scale.

[edit] Painting

Main article: Figure painting (hobby)
Converted Dark Angel Captain.
Converted Dark Angel Captain.

Many role-playing gamers and wargamers will paint their miniature figures to be able to differentiate characters or units on a gaming surface (terrain, battle mat, or unadorned table top).

Although many gamers are indifferent to the quality of the paint job, for some the skillful painting of minis is a hobby in itself, on a par with the "more serious" modelling of historical and military figures. Skillful mini painting is a difficult, exacting, time-consuming process, but the results can be quite amazing.

Fantasy, role-playing, miniatures and wargaming conventions will sometimes feature miniature painting competitions, such as Games Workshop's Golden Demon contest, and there are many painting competitions on the internet.

Professional painting services exist for hobbyist and corporate customers.

[edit] Manufacture

There are two basic methods to manufacture figures: centrifugal/gravity casting and plastic injection casting.

Most metal and resin figures are made through spin casting. Larger resin models, like buildings and vehicles, are sometimes gravity cast which is a slower process. For this process a sculptor will deliver a master figure which is then used to create rubber master and production moulds. The production moulds are then used to cast the actual figures you find in the stores.

Polyethylene and polystyrene figures are made through injection moulding. A machine heats plastic and injects it under high pressure into a steel mould. This is a very expensive process which is only cost effective when you manufacture very large amounts of figures since the cost per cast is minimal.

Many miniatures companies do not do the actual production themselves but leave this to specialised casting companies or miniatures companies that do have a casting facility.

Notable miniatures companies include:

[edit] Sculpting

Most miniatures are hand sculpted in the same size as the final figure using two component epoxy putties. The components are mixed together to create a sculpting compound which hardens in a period of 1-3 hours. There are many brands of putties and each has its own properties. Some commonly used ones are Polymerics Kneadatite blue\yellow (AKA "green stuff" and "Duro" in Europe), Milliput, A&B and Magic sculp. Polymer clays have been avoided for a long time as they can not withstand the traditional mouldmaking process. Modern techniques using RTV and softer quality rubbers have made it possible to use weaker materials and polymer clay masters are more common now. Fimo is the most popular of these clays though only specific colours are used since each has its own properties.

Masters for plastic miniatures are often made in a larger scale (often 3 times the required size). The master is measured with a probe linked to a pantograph which reduces the measurements to the correct size and drives the cutter that makes the moulds.

A more recent development is the use of digital 3D models made by computer artists. These models can be used to create a physical model for mouldmaking using rapid prototyping techniques or they can be used directly to drive a CNC machine which cuts the steel mould.

[edit] Notable sculptors

Many sculptors, marked (*) below, now have their own "boutique" mini companies.
  • Kev Adams: Citadel, Wargames Foundry (Nicknamed 'Goblinmaster')
  • Evan Allen: Battlefront
  • Richard Ansell: Prolific freelance sculptor with several woodlice in his own name.
  • Anthony Barton: AB Figures
  • Nick Bibby: Citadel. Also sculpts ornamental animal figurines and bronzes.
  • Mike Broadbent: Eureka Miniatures
  • Steve Buddle: Dark Age, Spyglass (*)
  • Mark Copplestone: Wargames Foundry, Copplestone Castings (*)
  • John Dennett: Mid period Grenadier sculptor, creature designs for some of the classic sets. Now does larger scale "garage" kits.
  • Chaz Elliott: Games Workshop, Reaper, Magnificent Egos and several others
  • Andy Foster: Heresy (*)
  • Sandra Garrity: Reaper, Lance & Laser, Grenadier, Miniature GameWorks
  • Martin Goddard: Peter Pig
  • Jes Goodwin: Citadel (Skaven, Wood Elf "war dancers", Eldar "aspect warriors", Eldar Harlequins.)
  • Jeff Grace: Ral Partha, Reaper, Darksword miniatures, Wizkids Games, Privateer Press, AEG
  • Matt Gubser: Reaper, Dark Age Games
  • Julie Guthrie: Reaper, Grenadier
  • Paul Hicks: Gripping Beast, Bolt Action Miniatures, Mongrel Miniatures, Anglian Miniatures
  • Bobby Jackson: Reaper, Ral Partha, Grenadier, Magnificent Egos, Iron Heroes, Privateer Press
  • Werner Klocke: Reaper, Dark Age, Excalibur, Freebooter (*)
  • Philippe Ferrier Le Clerc: Dreampod 9, Minimaniak (*)
  • Ian Lungold: Dark Horse Miniatures
  • Tom Meier: Ral Partha, Darksword miniatures, Thunderbolt Mountain (*)
  • Dennis Mize: Ral Partha, Darksword miniatures
  • Ali Morrison: Citadel (samurai)
  • Bob Murch: RAFM Call of Cthulhu, Pulp Figures (*)
  • Paul Muller:GW, freelance for Heresy & Otherworld
  • Jonathan Myers: Third Kingdom, Whimsical Entertainment
  • Brian Nelson: Games Workshop
  • Stefan B. Niehues: Hobby Products, Excalibur, Assassin, Privateer Press, Dark-Age, Masquerade-Miniatures (*)
  • Bob Olley: Ral Partha Enterprises, Reaper, Olley's Armies
  • Mike Owen: Wargames Foundry, Artizan Designs
  • Felix Paniagua: DragonRune Miniatures (founder), Games Workshop, Privateer Press
  • Alan and Michael Perry: Wargames Foundry, Games Workshop, Perry Miniatures (*).
  • Sylvain Quirion: Dragonrune, EM4, Fanatic, Fenryll, Magnificent Egos, Reaper, Hasslefree.
  • Bob Ridolfi: Reaper
  • Ben Saunders: Privateer Press, Wizkids Games, Upper Deck, Mongoose Publishing
  • Steve Saunders: Ral Partha, Reaper, Privateer Press, Wizkids Games, Upper Deck, Wyrd Games, Tactical Miniatures, Aberrant Games, AEG, Mongoose Publishing
  • Dave Summers: Ral Partha, Darksword Miniatures, Wizkids Games, Upper Deck, Prvateer Press
  • Chris Tubb: Mithril
  • Kev White: Ground Zero Games, Clarecraft, Harlequin Miniatures, Target Games, Wizards of the Coast, Privateer Press, Xyston, i-Kore, Dark Age, The Figure Trader, Hasslefree (*)
  • Jeff Wilhelm: Ral Partha, Wizkids Games, Wyrd Games, Mongoose Publishing, Dragonforge Design (*)

[edit] Miniatures in Dungeons & Dragons

[edit] Manufacture

The original Dungeons & Dragons role-playing game bore the subtitle, "Rules for Fantastic Miniature Wargames Campaigns Playable with Paper and Pencil and Miniature Figures." Initially, fantasy wargamers used figures designed for historical wargaming, but eventually, new lines of fantasy figures appeared.

TSR produced a line of official Advanced Dungeons & Dragons miniatures. Other companies have produced a multitude of figures for Dungeons & Dragons and other games in various scales. Hasbro, in the early states of publishing Dungeon & Dragons Third Edition, produced a new game called Chainmail based on simplified D&D rules. That project was abandoned, and the Dungeons & Dragons Miniatures Game now serves as the game's official line of miniatures, in addition to being played as a standalone game.

Traditionally, figures were made of lead or pewter. Many are still made of pewter or other alloys, but plastic miniatures have grown in popularity. Both Mage Knight and the Dungeons & Dragons Miniatures Game use prepainted, collectible plastic figures.

[edit] Gameplay

Originally, D&D was simply a miniatures game, with the distinction that each player controlled a single figure and a wider variety of moves or plays were possible. As the game grew and changed, miniatures remained a way of visually representing tactical situations.

Dungeons & Dragons did not require miniatures, although it suggested ways of using them, and referred interested players to the official line of AD&D figures. AD&D did assume the use of miniatures. Player's Option: Combat & Tactics introduced a more elaborate grid-based combat system that emphasized the use of miniatures; a streamlined version of some of these concepts made their way into Dungeons & Dragons Third Edition.

Although not strictly necessary, the use of miniatures is assumed in the current version of the game, and many game mechanics refer explicitly to the combat grid. In addition to reducing ambiguity about the size and position of characters, this allows the game rules to define rules such as reach, threatened areas, and movement rates intended to simulate a particular reality. A side benefit, from the standpoint of Hasbro, is driving miniature sales, which are potentially an evergreen market compared to the easily saturated market for more books among customers who already own the core rulebooks.

[edit] See also

[edit] References

  1. ^ Bigalow, Robert 1993. "Through the Looking Glass", Dragon 192:112–118 (Apr 1993).
  2. ^ N.Y. P.B.H. Law § 1376-a
  3. ^ Bigalow, Robert 1984. "Through the Looking Glass", Dragon 205:114–122 (May 1994).

[edit] External links

  • The Miniatures Page, a source of daily news about the tabletop wargaming hobby. Includes directory of miniatures manufacturers.
  • The Stuff of Legends, a large reference for lists and pictures of fantasy and sf miniatures.
  • Miniatures Atlas, a reference of miniatures currently available for sale.
  • CoolMiniOrNot, a gallery for painted miniatures on the net.
  • ScaleModel.NET International list of scale model related web site, searchable web directory for miniature figures.
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