Dreadlocks

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Man with long locks
Man with long locks

Dreadlocks, sometimes simply called locks or dreads, are interlocked coils of hair which tend to form by themselves, in all hair types, if the hair is allowed to grow naturally without the use of brushes, combs, razors, or scissors for a long period of time. Many religions and cultures specifically forbid wearers to cut their hair. It is common for wearers to perform thorough maintenance on their hair, including regular washing and various techniques of re-knotting, in order to maintain the desired appearance[citation needed]. Although the term dreadlock is associated closely with the Rastafari movement community, people of various cultures have worn, and continue to wear, locks.

Contents

[edit] History

Shiva takes the weight of the mighty Ganges in his locks and imprisons it. The river is released through the locks of his hair, which prevents the river's force from destroying earth, and the waters bring purification to the planet.
Shiva takes the weight of the mighty Ganges in his locks and imprisons it. The river is released through the locks of his hair, which prevents the river's force from destroying earth, and the waters bring purification to the planet.

The first known examples of dreadlocks date back to ancient dynastic Egypt. Examples of Egyptians wearing locked hairstyles and wigs have appeared on bas-reliefs, statuary and other artifacts.[1] Mummified remains of ancient Egyptians with locks, as well as locked wigs, also have been recovered from archaeological sites.[2]

The locked Hindu deity Shiva and his followers were described in the scriptures as "jaTaa", meaning "wearing twisted locks of hair", probably derived from the Dravidian word "caTai", which means to twist or to wrap.[citation needed] The Greeks,[citation needed] the Pacific Ocean peoples,[citation needed] the Naga people and several ascetic groups within various major religions have at times worn their hair in locks, these include the Nazirites of Judaism, the Sadhus of Hinduism, the Dervishes of Islam and the Coptic Monks of Christianity,[citation needed] among others. The very earliest Christians also may have worn this hairstyle.[citation needed] Particularly noteworthy are descriptions of James the Just, brother of Jesus and first Bishop of Jerusalem, who wore them to his ankles.[citation needed]

Locks may have also been part of Mexican culture before the 16th century Spanish conquest. In a description of an Aztec ritual, Historian William Hickling Prescott referred to locked Priests of the Aztec civilization, a Mesoamerican people of central Mexico in the 14th century, 15th century and 16th century.

"On the summit he was received by six priests, whose long and matted locks flowed disorderly over their sable robes, covered with hieroglyphic scrolls of mystic import. They led him to the sacrificial stone, a huge block of jasper, with its upper surface somewhat convex." (William H. Prescott, History of the Conquest of Mexico)

In Senegal, the Baye Fall, followers of the Mouride movement, a sect of Islam indigenous to the country which was founded in 1887 by Shaykh Aamadu Bàmba Mbàkke, are famous for growing locks and wearing multi-colored gowns.[3] Cheikh Ibra Fall, founder of the Baye Fall school of the Mouride Brotherhood, claims that he was "the first dread in West Africa".

In Jamaica the term dreadlocks was first recorded in the 1950s as a term for the "Young Black Faith", an early sect of the Rastafari which began among the marginalized poor of Jamaica in the 1930s, when they ceased to copy the particular hair style of Haile Selassie I of Ethiopia and began to wear dreadlocks instead[citation needed]. It was said that the wearer lived a "dread" life or a life in which he feared God, which gave birth to the modern name 'dreadlocks' for this ancient style[citation needed].

Most Rastafari still attribute their dreadlocks to Selassie as well as the three Nazarite vows, in the Book of Numbers, the fourth of the books of the Pentateuch[citation needed].

All the days of the vow of his separation there shall no razor come upon his head: until the days be fulfilled, in the which he separateth himself unto the LORD, he shall be holy, and shall let the locks of the hair of his head grow. (Numbers 6:5, KJV)

Nazarites for life who wore locks and were mentioned in the Bible include the Nazarites Samuel, John the Baptist, and probably the most famous biblical figure with locked hair, Samson, who, according to scripture, had seven locks and lost his great strength when they were cut[citation needed].

[edit] Motivations

A person with thick locks
A person with thick locks

The rise in popularity of reggae music during the 1970s and the worldwide fame of singer and songwriter Bob Marley, who exhibited dreadlocks for many years, prompted an interest in locks internationally. The anti-establishment philosophy of Rastafari, echoed in much of the reggae of the time, had a particular resonance for left-leaning youth.

Like the afro, locks also can have social and political ramifications. For some peoples of African descent, locks are a statement of ethnic pride. Some see them as a repudiation of Eurocentric values represented by straightened hair. For some, the rejection of ideas and values deemed alien to African peoples (which locks embody) sometimes can assume a spiritual dimension. Similarly, others wear locks as a manifestation of their black nationalist or pan-Africanist political beliefs and view locks as symbols of black unity and power, and a rejection of oppression and imperialism. While most Rastafari sects welcome all ethnicities and the history of locks attributes the hairstyle to almost all ethnic groups, some blacks who attach strong ethnic meaning to locks disapprove of the wearing of locks by white people viewing such practice as a form of cultural appropriation.

In white counterculture, locks have become popular among groups such as the "anti-globalization" movement and environmental activists (such as Swampy, well-known in the 1990s). One issue of SchNEWS, an English anarchist newsletter, described the coming together of striking dockworkers and green protesters as "Docks and dreadlocks come together". [4] Some people also describe them as "neo-hippies."

Rastafari and British film director and musician Don Letts, explained the punk-rasta unity, which emerged in Great Britain during the early 1970s, in terms of a shared sense of a rebellion against the establishment and established norms.

The reggae thing and the punk thing...it's the same fuckin' thing. Just the black version and the white version. The kids are singing about the change, they wanna do away with the establishment. ...Our Babylon is your establishment, same fuckin' thing. If we beat it, then you beat it, and vice versa... Like with me hair, and the red, gold, and green. Once you put that hat on your head you're takin' on a whole lot of shit, you know what I mean? Same as a punk, right, a punk wears his clothes. He's makin' an outward sign he's rebelling. (Don Letts, 1977 interview with Sniffin' Glue [5])

Raver with multi-colored, woolen and synthetic dreadlocks
Raver with multi-colored, woolen and synthetic dreadlocks

Dreadlocks are also popular in reggae and ska subcultures.

Dreadlocks came into prominence in the 90's with the introduction of Nu metal with many bands such as Korn, P.O.D and Incubus donning dreadlocks. Rob Zombie is another prominent artist known for wearing his hair in dreads.

Within other youth subcultures, locks also can be a means of creative self-expression, a symbol of individualism and a form of rebellion against traditional ties and restrictions. For example the members of the Cybergoth movement in Europe setting out to shock with creative hair displays like wildly coloured lock wigs, "dread falls" and elaborate extensions complemented by dramatic make-up to oppose representations of authority and conformity.

Certain children, especially Africans, cultivate dreadlocks from the time of birth which is sometimes thought to be a sign of spiritual power of the new born.

[edit] By culture

[edit] Hinduism

A dreadlocked Samson fights the lion in this drawing from a 15th century Icelandic manuscript.
A dreadlocked Samson fights the lion in this drawing from a 15th century Icelandic manuscript.

There are many reasons among various cultures for wearing locks. Locks can be an expression of deep religious or spiritual convictions, a manifestation of ethnic pride, a political statement, or be simply a fashion preference. In response to the derogatory history of the term dreadlocks, alternative names for the style include locks and African Locks. It is also argued that the accurate term for the process of creating the style is locking rather than dreading.

Among some Sadhus and Sadhvis, Indian holy men and women, locks are sacred, considered to be a religious practice and an expression of their disregard for profane vanity, as well as a symbol of their spiritual understanding that physical appearances are unimportant. The public symbol of matted hair is re-created each time an individual goes through these unique experiences.[citation needed] In almost all myths about Shiva and his flowing locks, there is a continual interplay of extreme asceticism and virile potency, which link the elements of destruction and creation, whereas the full head of matted hair symbolizes the control of power.[citation needed]

Gangadhara Shiva captures and controls the river Ganges with his locks, whose descent from the heavens would have deluged the world. The river is released through the locks of his hair, which prevents the river from destroying earth. As the Lord of Dance, Nataraja, Shiva performs the tandava, which is the dance in which the universe is created, maintained, and resolved. Shiva's long, matted tresses, usually piled up in a kind of pyramid, loosen during the dance and crash into the heavenly bodies, knocking them off course or destroying them utterly.

Locks in India are reserved nearly exclusively for holy people. According to the 'Hymn of the longhaired sage' in the ancient Vedas, long jatas express a spiritual significance which implies the wearer has special relations with spirits, is an immortal traveller between two worlds and the master over fire:

The long-haired one endures fire, the long-haired one endures poison, the long-haired one endures both worlds. The long-haired one is said to gaze full on heaven, the long-haired one is said to be that light ... Of us, you mortals, only our bodies do you behold. ...For him has the Lord of life churned and pounded the unbendable, when the long-haired one, in Rudra’s company, drank from the poison cup (The Keshin Hymn, Rig-veda 10.136)

Sadhu with jata (long locks) twisted in a knot on top of the head
Sadhu with jata (long locks) twisted in a knot on top of the head

The Shaiva Nagas, ascetics of India, wear their jata (long hair) in a twisted knot or bundle on top of the head and let them down only for special occasions and rituals. The strands are then rubbed with ashes and cowdung, considered both sacred and purifying, then scented and adorned with flowers.

[edit] Rastafari

Similarly, the Rastafari wear locks as an expression of inner spirituality. For them, the term "dread" refers to a "fear of the Lord", expressed in part as alienation from the perceived decadence and other evils of contemporary society and a return to the Covenant with the Almighty, Jah Rastafari.[citation needed]

Another interpretation among the Rastafari is that "dread" refers to the fear locked Mau Mau warriors inspired among the colonial British.[citation needed]

Dreadlocks on a Rasta's head are symbolic of the Lion of Judah which is sometimes centered on the Ethiopian Flag. Rastas hold that Selassie is a direct descendant of the Israelite Tribe of Judah through the lineage of Kings of Israel David and Solomon, and that he is also the Lion of Judah mentioned in the Book of Revelation.

The Ngati Dreads or Māori Rastafaris, indigenous people of New Zealand, combine the Rasta teaching with the teachings of Te Kooti Arikirangi Te Turuki, a Māori leader and the founder of the Ringatu religion who preached belief in God and the rejection of Māori tohungaism.

[edit] Western

Man with dreadlocks.
Man with dreadlocks.

When reggae music gained popularity and mainstream acceptance in the '70s, the locks (often called “dreads”) were co-opted by the secular and became a notable fashion statement; they were worn by prominent authors, actors, athletes and rappers, and were even portrayed as part and parcel of gang culture in such movies as Marked for Death.

With the "Rasta style", the fashion and beauty industries capitalized on the trend. A completely new line of hair care products and services emerged in salons that catered to a Caucasian clientele, offering all sorts of "dreadhead" hair care items such as wax, shampoo, and jewelry. Hairstylists created a wide variety of modified locks, including multi-colored, synthetic lock extensions and "dread perms", where chemicals are used to treat the hair.

Hair salons in Black communities boomed as well, with well-known Black artists such as Rosalind Cash, Whoopi Goldberg, Alice Walker, Toni Morrison, Lauryn Hill, Lenny Kravitz, Bobby McFerrin, Malcolm Jamal Warner, Living Colour and Keith Hamilton Cobb inspiring a "new" look for Afrocentric hair free from chemical processing. While some mistakenly view Milli Vanilli as examples of this type of dread, their hair was actually styled in multiple braids viewable on several of their album covers. Microbraids as well as two-strand twists are sometimes mistaken for dreadlocks.

Locked models appeared at fashion shows, and Rasta clothing with a Jamaican-style reggae look were sold. Even exclusive fashion brands like Christian Dior created whole Rasta-inspired collections worn by models with a variety of lock hairstyles.

[edit] See also

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[edit] Notes

[edit] References

[edit] External links