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Expedition to Mt Margherita Through the Democratic Republic of Congo
1. We began our expedition to Mount Margherita in the Ruwenzori Ranges bordering Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda on 15th December 06. We boarded a flight from GOMA airport to BENI. We collected some of the mountaineering equipment like crampons, pitons,rope, carribeners, iceaxes, etc.
2. On 15th December 06, we started off from BENI to MUTSORA, a three hour journey. We reached MUTSORA by 1530 hrs and met the officials at the ICCN office. We discussed the various modalities of the expedition. The chief guide Mr Mbaka who speaks english told us that the entire expedition would take 6 days. We completed the formalities (details i will give u later). We also hired the high quality equipment present at the ICCN office like walking sticks, snow goggles, snow gloves,etc.
3.The climb began on 16th at 0900hrs. The porters we hired took our heavy stuff whereas we carried our immediate change of clothes in a smaller rucksack.
4. At approximately 1130hrs we reached Kondilire camp and further moved ahead to the first base camp at Kalonge (2138Mtrs). We reached kalonge at 1430 hrs. It was a strenous climb through typical dense african jungles. There was too much of dense blogs and undergrowth. the going was muddy. Our jungle boots and clothes were all drenched due to the mud and the numerous small streams enroute. We refilled all our water bottles from the clean water flowing in the streams. The halt at Kalonge was in a small hut built by the Belgians from 1938 to 1947. The huts are still in very good condition. There is ample firewood available for cooking and drying your clothes at this camp.
5. We started our hike further uphill from Kalonge base camp to Mahangu Base camp at 0745hrs on 17 December 06. It was an exhaustive climb with steep slopes with a gradient of 45 to 70 degrees at an average. After crossing a big stream at a short distance from Kalonge there were no more streams. However because of the rain the route was very muddy and damp. Moreover the slopes were very slippery and wet.After walking for about 2 hours, we passed through a Bamboo plantation which was very pleasant. Then started the phase of roots. It was more like tree climbing rather than mountain climbing with decaying roots from trees intertwined all over the place. This stretch extended to more than 3 hours. The going was uncomfortable with rains and showers drenching our clothes and equipment. Enroute we rested at a small temple made out of grass which the porters adorn with their cultural music and dance. We proceeded further ahead and reached Mahangu Base Camp (3310 Mtrs) at 1400hrs. Firewood was available at this place too helping us to cook our food and dry our clothes.
6. The next day 18 Dec 06, we moved to the final base camp Moraine at 0700hrs. After about 2 hours of walk in a stretch of decaying roots, the route eased up. There was a lot of undergrowth however the slopes were rocky and steep. We reached Kiondo Base Camp (4200Mts)at 1120hrs and had a quick lunch here.There was a scarcity of firewood at this place. We again began our progress ahead at 1150hrs and reached the final bade camp Moraine (4500Mtrs) at 1430 hrs. Enroute from Kiondo to Moraine, are steep rocky cliffs. These cliffs we crossed over using 03 cable bridges. The ropes are very well fastened and it is really worth the experience. After crossing over, we witnessed three beautiful lakes - The Black Lake, Green Lake and Grey Lake. These lakes are in a very pictursque location and its a sight worth cherishing. After absorbing the beauty, we moved further ahead through the rocky surface to Moraine(4500Mts)and reached. The chief guide showed us the route to the final peak. The visibility was very poor and we could hardly see the snow capped peaks. The porters left us at Moraine and returned back to Kiondo. This is largely due to porters not owning snow equipment, lack of warm clothing and being untrained in ice craft. The temperature at Moraine is between 1 to 2 degrees and there is no firewood. We prepared the food using the stove and kerosene we had carried.
7. The next morning,19 Dec 06, we commenced our final summit at 0530hrs. The initial climb was through rocky terrain for the first 1 hour. This was followed by climbing through snow. After navigating through the snow terrain for 4 and a half hours through poor visibility conditions, we finally spotted a rope way. Following the general direction and negotiating through the rocky slopes being roped up, we finally reached the peak at 1040hrs. The route through the snow was taxing. Effective use of the crampons and iceaxe and walking sticks was done enroute. We reached back Moraine Base Camp after our successful summit at 1430hrs and rested for the entire day.
8. The next day ;ie;20 Dec 06 ,we started descending at 0900hrs due to heavy snowfall through out the night and early morning and reached Kalonge Base Camp at 1600hrs. Our final descent to Mutsora commenced on 21 Dec 06 at 0730hrs and we finally returned back at 1100hrs. The entire route downhill was very taxing on the knees alongwith the after effects of lack of acclamatisation. However being in good physical condition helped us overcome the same.
9. Approximate Costing for the Expedition*:
$50 per person - Park Entry Fee Charges.
$5 per person per night - Accomodation Charges for the huts enroute.
$3 per porter per day - Porter ration charges.
$5 per porter per day - Porter Fees.
$10 per porter - Porter Risk Allowance Charges for crossing cable bridge.
Equipment Hire Charges
* - These charges are subject to change as per the existing policy of ICCN. Kindly confirm the same.
10. The entire summit was a great experience with dense tropical african jungles, decaying roots, dense undergrowth and blogs, steep slopes, rock face and rock climbing and soft and hard snow capped peaks. It is physically and mentally taxing. I am not a professional mountaineer myself but professionals who have summitted the peak also opine that the expedition is not an easy one.
11. I would like to thank my senior officers of IndBatt-1/IV (MONUC) for their encouragement, IndBatt-2/V (MONUC) for their assisatnce, the Porters for their indomitable spirit and my team -viz- Capt Sandesh Kadam, Lt Aashish Ashta,Nk Rajendar Bhatia and Ptr Jeevan for their unflinching support.
(rmv personal e-mail address)
Capt Arun Iyer - IndBatt-1/IV (MONUC)
[edit] Sources
Information on Ruwenzori Peaks in Wikipedia www.peakware.com/areas.html?a=393 - 13k en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Stanley - 21k 196.44.240.61 11:26, 9 January 2007 (UTC)
- Declined - simply appears to be a travel log with no applicable sources. Kuru talk 13:09, 9 January 2007 (UTC)
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