Water knot

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Water knot
Names Water knot, Tape knot, Ring bend
Category bend
Related Overhand knot, Beer knot, Overhand bend
Typical use To join webbing for climbing
Caveat Ends should be left long, knot should be tightened and inspected before each use
ABoK #296

The water knot (or tape knot) is a knot frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling. To tie, first form an overhand knot in one end and then follow it with the other end, feeding in the opposite direction.

[edit] Security

Water knot before tightening
Water knot before tightening

The ends should be left at least three inches long and the knot should be "set" by tightening it with full body weight. The ends can be taped or lightly sewn to the standing parts to help prevent them from creeping back into the knot. Inspect the knot before each use.[1]

Testing has shown the water knot to slip very slightly, but very consistently, with each load and unload cycle. In tests using 9/16 in (14.3 mm) tubular webbing, repeated loading and unloading with 250 lbs (113 kg) caused one of the 3 in (76 mm) tails to work back into the knot in just over 800 loading cycles. When the water knot was statically loaded with 200 lbs (91 kg) no slipping was observed. These results validate the need to leave long tails and inspect water knots before each use.[2]

[edit] References

  1. ^ Craig Luebben, Knots for Climbers (Evergreen, Colorado: Chockstone Press, 1993), 19.
  2. ^ Tom Moyer, Water Knot Testing, 1999 International Technical Rescue Symposium, 1999. ([1] accessed 2007-04-07.)