Tea in Russia

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A Tea-Drinking in Mytishchi. Vasily Perov, 1862
A Tea-Drinking in Mytishchi. Vasily Perov, 1862

Since 1638, tea has had a rich and varied history in Russia. Today it is considered the de facto national beverage [1] and one of the most popular beverages in the country [2], due in part to Russia's northern climate and is closely associated with traditional Russian culture. An important aspect of the Russian tea culture is the ubiquitous Russian tea brewing device known as a Samovar, which has become a symbol of hospitality, and comfort. It was traditional drunk at afternoon tea, but has since spread as an all day drink, especially at the end of meals served with soup or desert.

Contents

[edit] Russian Tea History

Tea in Russia was introduced in 1638, when Mongolian ruler donated to Tsar Michael I four poods (65-70 kg) of tea.[3] In 1679 Russia concluded a treaty on regular tea supplies from China via camel caravan in exchange for furs.[3] The Chinese ambassador to Moscow made a gift of several chests of tea to Alexis I.[4] However the difficult trade route made the cost of tea extremely high, so that the beverage became available only to royalty and the very wealthy of Russia.[4] In 1689, the Treaty of Nerchink was signed that formalized Russia's sovereignty over Siberia, and also marked the creation of the Tea Road that traders used between Russia and China. Between the Treaty of Nerchinsk and the Kiakhta Agreement, Russia would increase its caravans going to China for tea, but only thought state dealers. In 1706, Peter the Great made it illegal for any merchants to trade in Beijing. In 1736, Catherine the Great established regular imports of tea. By the time of Catherine's death in 1796, Russia was importing more than 3 million pounds by camel caravan in the form of loose tea and tea bricks, enough tea to considerable lower the price enough so that lower and middle class Russians could afford the beverage. [5] The peak year for the Kiakhta tea trade was in 1824, and the peak year for the tea caravans was 1860. From then, they started to decline when the first leg of the Trans-Siberian Railroad was completed in 1880. Faster train service allowed for tea to be imported from nearly a year and a half to eventually just over a week.[6] The decline in Chinese tea in the mid 19th century in turn meant that Russia began to import more tea from Odessa, and London. By 1905, horse drawn tea transport had ended, and by 1925 caravan as the sole means of transport for tea had ended. [7] In 2002, Russia imported some 162,000 metric tons of tea. [8]

[edit] Russian Tea Production

By the end of the 18th century, tea prices had gone down somewhat. The first local tea plant was set in Nikitsk botanical gardens in 1814, while the first industrial tea plantation was established in 1885.[3] The tea industry did not take off until World War I, and greatly expanded following World War II. Prior to the fall of the USSR, "the total area under tea as 3,707 acres with an annual production of 3,858-4,4409 tons from two factories." However, by the mid 1990s, tea production came to a standstill. Today, the main area in Russia for tea production is in the Krasnodar Province. [9]

[edit] Tea Varieties

Traditionally, black tea is the most common tea in Russia, but green tea is becoming more popular.

Traditional tea in Russia includes the traditional type known as Russian Caravan as it was originally imported from China via camel caravan. As the trip was very long, usually taking as long as 16 or 18 months, the tea acquired its distinctive smoky flavor from the caravan's campfires. Today, this tea is often given its smoky flavor after fermentation or is a keemun or a "black or oolong from China or Formosa with a hint of smoky Lapsang Souchong or Tarry Souchong." [10]

[edit] Tea in the Russian Diet

According to a 2005 study, some 82% of Russians consume tea daily. [2]

[edit] Nutrition

Tea is a source of various minerals and nutrients that help supplement the Russian diet, and is used in Russia as a source of low cost nutrition. However, due to the large intake of tea by women and children, there is evidence to support that the Russian diet is deficient in iron in part because tea contains tannins which inhibits iron absorption. [11]

[edit] Tea culture

The Merchant's Wife. Boris Kustodiev, 1918
The Merchant's Wife. Boris Kustodiev, 1918

According to William Pokhlyobkin, tea in Russia was not perceived as a self-dependent beverage, thus even the affluent classes adorned it with a jam, syrup, cakes, cookies, candies, lemon etc. This is similar to the archaic idiom "чай да сахар" (tea and sugar). The Russian language utilizes some memes pertaining to tea consumption, including "чайку-с?" (roughly "some tea?"), used by the pre-Revolutionary attendants. The others are "гонять чаи" (whip the teas, i.e. drinking the tea running) and "побаловаться чайком" (indulging in tea). Tea was made a significant element of cultural life by the literati of the Karamzinian circle.[12] By the mid-19th century tea had won over the town class, the merchants and the petty bourgeoisie.[12] This is reflected in the dramas of Alexandr Ostrovsky. Since Ostrovsky's time, duration and the amount of consumed tea are appreciated in the tea-drinking.[12] Aleksandr Pushkin in Eugene Onegin displayed the role of tea in establishing romantic relations:

Of single boredom, right away
They speak–but in a cunning way.
They call him to their samovar
None but Dunya will pour the tea;
They whisper to her: "Dunya, see!"
And then produce her sweet guitar.
O Christ! She then begins to cheep:
"Come see me in my golden keep!"

In the Soviet period, tea-drinking was the sole embellishment in the life of official staff (female secretaries, laboratory assistants, etc). Tea brands of the time were nicknamed "the brooms" (Georgian) and "the tea with an elephant" (Indian).[12] Tea was an immutable element of kitchen life among the intelligentsia in 1960s-'70s.[12] During the Gorbachev prohibition, samovars were used for vodka and teapots for cognac.[12]

In pre-Revolutionary Russia there was a joke "что после чаю следует?" with the correct answer being "the resurrection of the dead" from the creed.[12] This is based on the word "чаю" (chayu), the homograph designating formerly "I expect" ("look for" in the creed) and the dative case of the word "tea", still in use.

Within Russia, tea preparation differs, but usually includes lemon, and sugar or jam. Indeed, some Russians drink their tea with a cube of sugar held in between their teeth. [13] It is also customary to drink tea in Russia with the spoon inside the cup, instead of taking it out after stirring.

A well-known Russian tea blend is a mix with vodka, which is common in the Russian North.[12]

Tea is very popular in Russian prisons. Traditional mind-altering substances such as alcohol are typically prohibited, and tea is used as a substitute. Prepared in very high concentrations, it's called zavarka or chifir and due to its hallucinogenic effects is used at times as a form of punishment towards inmates.[14]

[edit] Russian Tea Ceremony and Accoutrements

An example of a samovar.
An example of a samovar.

Traditional forms of Russian tea ware include the Russian tea brewing urn called a samovar, the Lomonosov tea sets adorned with a cobalt blue net design and 22 karat gold, and traditional Russian tea glass holders.

[edit] Other Uses of Tea

A brick of Russian tea money of Tsar Nicholas II, 1891
A brick of Russian tea money of Tsar Nicholas II, 1891

Beyond drinking, tea bricks are sometimes eaten, and were used as a form of currency up until World War II.

[edit] Notes

  1. ^ Mack, Glenn (2005). Food Culture in Russia and Central Asia. Westport: Greenwood Press. ISBN 0313327734. 
  2. ^ a b Martinchik, AN. et al. Tea and Coffee Consumption Among Russian Population (sic). Voprosy pitaniia. 2005;74(3):42-6. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16044841 Article (in Russian).
  3. ^ a b c (1978) Great Soviet Encyclopedia. Советская энциклопедия, vol. 29, p. 11. 
  4. ^ a b Tea Time in Russia: Russian Life. Retrieved on 2008-04-22.
  5. ^ O'connor, Sharon (1997). Afternoon Tea Serenade. City: Menus & Music Production. ISBN 1883914183. 
  6. ^ Weinberg, Bennett (2001). The World of Caffeine. New York: Routledge. ISBN 0415927226. 
  7. ^ Avery, Martha (2003). The Tea Road. Beijing: China Intercontinental Press. ISBN 7508503805. 
  8. ^ Jolliffe, Lee (2007). Tea and Tourism: Tourists, Traditions, and Transformations. Clevedon England: Channel View Publications. ISBN 9781845410575. 
  9. ^ Pettigrew 2004, pg. 154
  10. ^ Pettigrew, Jane (1999). The Tea Companion. City: Viking Australia. ISBN 0670884014. 
  11. ^ Kohlmeier, L. et al. Deficient dietary iron intakes among women and children in Russia: evidence from the Russian Longitudinal Monitoring Survey. American Journal of Public Health. v.88(4). April 1998. Article
  12. ^ a b c d e f g h Знание - сила, 9/2006, p. 105; ISSN 0130 1640
  13. ^ Perry, Sara (2001). The New Tea Book. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. ISBN 0811830535. 
  14. ^ Russian Tea HOWTO (2002-04-01). Retrieved on 2008-04-26.
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