Mount Logan

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For other uses, see Mount Logan (disambiguation).
Mount Logan

Mount Logan from the southwest
Elevation 5,959 m (19,551 ft)
Location Yukon, Canada
Range Saint Elias Mountains
Prominence 5,250 m (17,224 ft) (Mentasta Pass)[1] Ranked 6th
Coordinates 60°34′02″N 140°24′10″W / 60.56722, -140.40278 (Mount Logan)Coordinates: 60°34′02″N 140°24′10″W / 60.56722, -140.40278 (Mount Logan)
Topo map NTS 115B
First ascent 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy et al.
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb
Listing Seven Second Summits

Mount Logan is Canada's highest mountain and the second-highest peak in North America, after Mount McKinley. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park and Reserve in southwestern Yukon and is the source of the Hubbard and Logan Glaciers. Logan reportedly has the largest base circumference of any mountain on Earth.[2][3]

Due to active tectonic uplifting, Mount Logan is actually still rising in elevation. Before 1992, the exact height of Mount Logan was unknown and measurements ranged from 5,959 metres (19,551 ft) to 6,050 metres (19,849 ft). In May 1992, a GSC expedition climbed Mount Logan and fixed the current height of 5,959 metres (19,551 ft) using GPS.[2]

Temperatures are extremely cold on and near Mount Logan. On May 26, 1991 a record −77.5 °C (−108 °F) was observed, making it the coldest recorded temperature outside of Antarctica.[4][dubious – discuss] It is not counted as the coldest temperature in North America since it was recorded at a very high altitude.

Contents

[edit] Peaks of the massif

The Mount Logan massif is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than 500 m (1,640 ft) of prominence, as listed below:

Peak Height Prominence coordinates
Main[1] 5,959 m (19,551 ft) 5,250 m (17,224 ft) above Mentasta Pass 60°33′60″N 140°24′14.4″W / 60.56667, -140.404 (Main)
Philippe Peak (West)[5] 5,925 m (19,439 ft) 265 m (869 ft) 60°34′42.6″N 140°26′02.4″W / 60.5785, -140.434 (Philippe Peak)
Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)[6] 5,898 m (19,350 ft) 198 m (650 ft) 60°34′31.1″N 140°22′00.1″W / 60.575306, -140.366694 (Logan East Peak)
Houston's Peak[7] 5,740 m (18,832 ft) 100 m (328 ft) 60°35′03.5″N 140°27′20.5″W / 60.584306, -140.455694 (Houston's Peak)
Prospector Peak[8] 5,644 m (18,517 ft) 344 m (1,129 ft) 60°35′58.9″N 140°30′40.7″W / 60.599694, -140.511306 (Prospector Peak)
AINA Peak[9] 5,630 m (18,471 ft) 130 m (427 ft) 60°36′31.8″N 140°31′48.6″W / 60.608833, -140.530167 (AINA Peak)
Russell Peak[10] 5,580 m (18,307 ft) 80 m (262 ft) 60°35′31.2″N 140°29′08.9″W / 60.592, -140.485806 (Russell Peak)
Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)[11] 5,559 m (18,238 ft) 219 m (719 ft) 60°36′58.2″N 140°29′35.4″W / 60.616167, -140.493167 (Tudor Peak)
Saxon Peak (Northeast)[12] 5,500 m (18,045 ft) 80 m (262 ft) 60°37′12.0″N 140°27′57.6″W / 60.62, -140.466 (Saxon Peak)
Queen Peak[13] 5,380 m (17,651 ft) 160 m (525 ft) 60°36′33.5″N 140°35′12.5″W / 60.609306, -140.586806 (Queen Peak)
Capet Peak (Northwest)[14] 5,250 m (17,224 ft) 240 m (787 ft) 60°38′15.0″N 140°32′41.3″W / 60.6375, -140.544806 (Capet Peak)
Catenary Peak[15] 4,097 m (13,442 ft) 397 m (1,302 ft) 60°36′36.0″N 140°17′52.1″W / 60.61, -140.297806 (Catenary Peak)
Teddy Peak[16] 3,956 m (12,979 ft) 456 m (1,496 ft) 60°32′37.7″N 140°28′41.5″W / 60.543806, -140.478194 (Teddy Peak)

[edit] First ascent

In 1922, a geologist approached the Alpine Club of Canada with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled and initially they had planned their attempt in 1924 but funding and preparation delays postponed the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining 200 kilometres (120 mi) to within 10 kilometres (6 mi) of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, A. Carpe, W.W. Foster, N. Read and A. Taylor stood on top for the first time.[17]

[edit] Proposed renaming

Following the death of former Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau, Prime Minister Jean Chrétien, a close friend of Trudeau's, considered renaming the mountain Mount Trudeau;[18] [19] however, opposition from Yukoners, mountaineers, geologists, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped. A mountain in British Columbia's Premier Range was named Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau instead.

[edit] May 2005 rescue

On the last few days of May 2005, three climbers from the North Shore Search and Rescue team of North Vancouver became stranded on the mountain. A joint operation by Canadian and American forces rescued the three climbers and took them to Anchorage, Alaska for treatment of frostbite There were also climbers on the mountain that were part of the same team who had to ditch their summit bid to help rescue their teammates. The main rescue team in the area was ironically the team that needed rescuing.[20]

[edit] See also

[edit] References

  1. ^ a b Mount Logan from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  2. ^ a b Mount Logan. Geological Survey of Canada. Retrieved on 2007-04-12.
  3. ^  
  4. ^ The Yukon - Mount Logan. Summits of Canada. Retrieved on 2007-04-12.
  5. ^ Philippe Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  6. ^ Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak) from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  7. ^ Houston's Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  8. ^ Houston's Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  9. ^ AINA Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  10. ^ Russell Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  11. ^ Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak) from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  12. ^ Saxon Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  13. ^ Queen Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  14. ^ Capet Peak (Northwest Peak) from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  15. ^ Catenary Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  16. ^ Teddy Peak from Bivouac, the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved on 15 July 2007.
  17. ^ Conquering Mount Logan. Parks Canada. Retrieved on 2007-04-12.
  18. ^ Mount Logan to become Mount Trudeau. CBC News (2000-10-05). Retrieved on 2007-04-12.
  19. ^ Highest peak to be Trudeau Mountain. Globe and Mail (2000-10-05). Retrieved on 2007-04-12.
  20. ^ ACC Accident report for May 2005. Alpine Club of Canada - Edmonton section. Retrieved on 2007-04-12.

[edit] External links


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Seven Second Summits