Mount Forbes

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Mount Forbes
Elevation 3,612 metres (11,850 ft)
Location Flag of Alberta Alberta Flag of Canada Canada
Range Canadian Rockies
Coordinates 51°51′35″N 116°55′50″W / 51.85972, -116.93056
Topo map NTS 82N/15 Mistaya Lake
First ascent 1902 by J. Norman Collie, James Outram, et al.
Easiest route rock/snow climb

Mount Forbes is a peak in the Canadian Rockies located 18 km (11 mi) southwest of the Saskatchewan River Crossing in Banff National Park. The mountain was named by James Hector in 1859 after Edward Forbes, Hector's natural history professor at the University of Edinburgh during the mid-nineteenth century.

Mt. Forbes was first ascended in 1902 by J. Norman Collie, James Outram, Hugh E.M. Stutfield, George M. Weed, Herman Woolley, guided by Christian Kaufmann.

[edit] Routes

  • West Ridge (Normal Route) III
  • North-West Face Variation III
  • West Ridge of Rosita III 5.3

Most common approach route for Mount Forbes is from the Alberta side, starting at the Icefields Parkway. Park at the Glacier Lake trailhead and follow the trail to the head of Glacier Lake (13 km). From there follow the old trail up the north bank of the Glacier River to the large open basin at the head of the river. Ford the Glacier river. Find the climbers trail ascending the timbered knob at the south end of the basin. Follow this trail as it climbs steeply up the knob then crosses to the west and climbs improbably up toward cliffs to the west. Eventually you climb above the canyon and then the drop slightly to the edge of the Mons Glacier. Camps can be made here or at the foot of the North Glacier of Mt. Forbes. From here, the peak can be climbed in a reasonable day. The approach takes 4-6 hours. A faster and shorter approach is from the west via recent logging roads starting north of Golden, BC. The 4-6 hour approach mentioned above has become much longer due to deteriorating trails, and also involves a cold river crossing. Many parties take two days using this approach. For a faster approach start on the Bush logging road and follow this until km 68. Here turn right on the Vallenciennes Road to km 13 where you follow the left fork up the Mons road. Park just past km 23 beside Icefall Brook. From here a trail ascends 350m up a gravel slope, where it traverses north on ledges above the Icefall Canyon. This ledge is on the west side of Mons Peak. After traversing for 1 km, the open meadows and moraines below the Mons Glacier are reached. From a camp here Mt. Forbes can be climbed in a day. This approach is 4 km long, climbs 1000 m, and can be done in 3-4 hours.

[edit] See also

[edit] External links


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