Ittar
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Ittar or Attar or itr is a natural perfumes made out of the juices of flowers like the jasmine, rose or sandal. It was popular with nobles of India.
The perfume evolved during the time of Mughals, Nizams and other princely dynasties of India. The royals used it as a deodorant.
Jasmine ittar was the favourite perfume of the Nizams of Hyderabad state. The Maharjas of the erstwhile states of Gwalior, Patiala, Darbhanga, Mysore and even Maharaja Ranjit Singh are counted amongst the most famous patrons of ittars.
Its customary practice of royals and nobles to offer ittar to their guests at the time of their departure. The ittars are in beautiful crystal cut glass containers called as itardans. Owing to its strong concentrated form, Ittar is sold in tiny bottles. Ittardan is where a cotton ball is soaked in ittar.
A traditional Indian perfume, Ittar has fascinated generations with its soothing fragrance. It figured in the romantic stories of the bygone era. Its patrons included great poets like the legendary Mirza Ghalib. Whenever Ghalib met his beloved in winters, he smeared his hands and face with attar hina.
Uttar Pradesh in the north and Hyderabad in the south are the few regions in the country where it is still made.
Most of the ittars are alcohol-free and are used by devout Muslims as one of the most beloved of materialistic things of this world to Muhammad, salallahu 'alayhi wasallam, was ittar. As ittars are natural products, chances of allergies are fewer.
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[edit] History
The word 'Attar', 'ittar' or 'othr' is basically an Arabic word which means 'scent'; this in turn is believed to have been derived from the Sanskrit word Sugandha, meaning 'aromatic'. The earliest distillation of Attar was mentioned in the Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita.
The story of Indian perfumes is as old as the civilization itself.
Archaeological evidence shows the earliest inhabitants of the Indian subcontinent held plants in great reverence. With the passage of time, scented oils were extracted by pressing, pulverizing or distilling aromatic vegetal and animal produce. Such processes led to the development of the art of alchemy, the earliest indications of which are available from the perfume jars and terracotta containers of the Indus Valley civilization. That the art has survived for centuries speaks volumes for the Indian perfumes. Integrated into India's daily life, scented plants are used to celebrate every aspect of Indian culture, from the ritual to the culinary, from the celibate to the erotic. Vedas mentioned a combination of numerous herbs, twigs, barks and flowers as offering to Gods in yagnas.
Archaeological digs have revealed round copper stills, used for making attars, that are at least five-thousand years old. These stills are called degs. Following the seasons of the flowers, traditional attar-makers, with their degs, traveled all over India to make their attars on-the-spot. Even now, rural areas often lack good roads to quickly transport the harvested flowers, and a few traditional attar-makers still travel with their degs to be close to the harvest. Their equipment has changed little, if at all, in the last five thousand years.
In Ain-e-Akbari, Abul Fazal, has mentioned that Akbar used ittar daily and burnt incense sticks in gold and silver censers. A princess’s toilette was incomplete without incense and attar. A very popular ittar with the Mughal princes was ood, prepared in Assam.
[edit] Preparation
The attars are manufactured traditionally Degs & Bhapka system, which is a hydro distillation process. The still is heated from below by lighting a fire with the help of wood or cow dung. The temperature and speed of the distillations controlled by regulating the fire. The distillation is managed by highly skilled/experience, workers called ‘Dighaa’. He knows when the correct quantity of vapours have condensed inside the receiver by feeling the round part of the receiver under water. The water in the tank is change continuously to prevent the temperature rising too high. Managing the still is highly skilled job, as the operator must keep the boiling in the still at a level that matches the condensation in the receiver, in order to keep the pressure under control. When the desire quantity of vapours have condensed, the Dighaa rubs a wet cloth around the body of the still for a temporary pause in distillation and the filled receiver is replaced by another receiver. If necessary, the second may be replaced by a third receiver. The receiver is then allowed to cool and may remain idle for one or two days depending on the pressure of work. The mixture of oil and water is then separated either directly form the receiver through a hole at the bottom or pouring the whole mixture in an open trough, After the oil and water have separated into two layers, the water is removed from an opening in the bottom, and the same is cohobated. The base material remains in the receiver. After desired concentration of the attar has been reached, then same is poured into leather bottles for sedimentation and removal of moisture. Sometimes liquid paraffin is used for the manufacture of cheaper attars. The mouth of the receiver is sealed by wrapping coarse cloth around the bamboo pipe and pushing it inside the condenser. The receiver may contain up to 5-10 kilos of base materials and is kept in a small water tank.
[edit] Types of Attars
The attars may be broadly categorized into following types on the basis of raw materials used.
Floral Attars – Attars manufactured from single species of flower are coming under this category. These are :-
- Gulab ex Rosa damascena or Rosa Edword
- Kewra ex Pandanus odoratissimus
- Motia ex Jasminum sambac
- Gulhina ex lawsonia inermis
- Chameli ex Jasminum grandiflorum
- Kadam ex Anthoephalus cadamba
Herbal and Spicy Attar is manufactured from combination of floral, herbal & spices come under this category. Hina and its various forms viz., Shamama, Shamam –tul – Amber, Musk Amber and Musk Hina.
The some attars which are neither floral nor herbal also come under this category.
Attar Mitti falls under this category and is produced by distillation of baked earth over base material.
[edit] Uses
The Indian attars in the past has been utilized by elite class of the society particularly kings and queens on their body. With the span of time kingdoms got abolished and hence the kings and queens. But, attars industry got a new dimension form the field of fragrance to flavour and now a days it is used in the following areas;
1. Pan Masala and Gutka is the largest consumer of Indian attars. The reason for using it is its extraordinary tenacity along with characteristic to withstand with tobacco note. The attars used are rose, Kewra, Mehndi, Hina, Shamama, Mitti, Marigold etc.
2. Tobacco is relatively smaller segment for attar consumption as compared to above industry. The attars used are mainly kewra & Rose. Along with Pan masala & Gutkha it contributes to more the 75% of attar consumption.
3. betel nut is relatively smaller segment for attar consumption as compared to above two industry. The attars used are mainly Kewra & Rose.
4. It is used by people as a personal perfume, particularly by Muslims due to absence of alcohol.
5. Attars does have the application in pharmaceutical industry too.
6. Attars of Rose & Kewra are used in traditional Indian sweets, for imparting flavour.
[edit] Application of Attar
The most common method of applying Attar practised by them was to rub a small amount of oil over the extended right hand palm down. This is also the etiquettes of receiving Ittar offered by someone. The Ittar oil is then rubbed over the beard, forehead etc. The second method is used when a physical or emotional condition is being treated. Put one or two drops of Ittar oil on a small piece of cotton (about the size of the end of a cotton bud or swab) then insert the cotton piece in the ridge like edge of the ear known as the crest of helix, (please note DO NOT insert inside the ear hole. This is done only in the right ear, where at this point of placement is five cranial nerves come together and form a nerve mass or ganglia (a nerve centre) this is an important point and used in many alternative medicines such as Chinese acupuncture. A small drop is enough to be used as a fragrance on the body. A few drops can be added to water and used with aromatic vapour lamps. A few drops of some Attars can also be used with cold drinks or to give fragrance and quality to cold milk. The warm notes of the spicy hina prepared from musk and saffron have the greatness of smelling different on every skin.
[edit] Storage & Shelf life
The Attar has a permanent shelf life and some of the Attars become stronger and smell better when they are older.
[edit] Medicinal Uses
Lemon oil taken internally or sniffed, is good for diabetes, asthma, boils and varicose veins. Three drops of sweet marjoram taken with a little jaggery cures migraine and hangovers. Nausea and vomiting are immediately controlled by petitgren oil. The simplest example of aromatherapy is attar Gill or Itr-e-khaki, (sondhi mitti) drawn from mud, which has the aroma of the first monsoon showers and can cure blood pressure and the flow of blood through nose owing to intense heat. Indian itr is increasingly being used for aromatherapy these days. The floral extracts with oil base can be extensively marketed for aromatherapy. Jasmine extract is useful in cases of stress, hypertension and treating skin ailments. Inhaling sandalwood oil lessens stress and can stop vomiting. Applying it on the chest and throat cures dry cough. Its curative properties extend to skin ailments as well. Marigold extract is an old medicine meant to heal stubborn wounds. It has excellent antiseptic properties. Heena is known for its heat inducing qualities and if used on quilts during winters, it is known to provide extra warmth. If inhaled during summer it can lead to nasal bleeding as well.
[edit] Rose Attar
Pink Rose – ‘Eternal Love’: Queen of the essential oils; a soft fragrance, opens the heart centre, gives a sense of security and spiritual unison. Reduces anger. Balances all Doshas.
- Simultaneous on the physical, emotional and spiritual realms-uplifting ·
- Cleansing and purifying liver · It helps to ease depression, frigidity, nervous tension
- Headache
- Relieves shock
- Palpitations
- Poor circulation
- Nausea
- Mildly sedative
- Antidepressant
- Anti inflammatory remedy
- Enhances immunity
- Helping to restrain the development of infections through their cleansing action.
- Runny nose and blocked bronchial tubes
- An uplifting
- restoring effect on the nervous system
- Relieur insomnie
- Remove fatigue
- Soothe irritability.
[edit] Heena Attar
Amber Heena – ‘Dynamic’: For ceremonies, prayers, clairvoyance and protection from disturbing influences. Promotes the energy of the 3rd Chakra.
- It is known to provide extra heating.
- It provides relive to the user when one suffers with insomnia
[edit] Champa Attar
‘Romance’: A romantic, sweet-smelling and aphrodisiac fragrance. Promotes the energy of the 1st & 4th Chakras.
- Diseases of the head,
- Attar is helpful in treating sub-acute rheumatism
- Relieving common headache
[edit] Sandalwood
Chandan – ‘Worship’: For Tantra and worship. A relaxing essence that removes fear and evokes an attitude of surrender. Promotes the energy of the 6th & 7th Chakras.
- Sandalwood oil lessens stress
- Can stop vomiting
- Applying it on the chest and throat cures dry cough
- Its curative properties extend to skin ailments as well
- Helps to relieve depression
- Stress
- Anxiety
- Travel sickness
- Heals inflamed dry
- Excites the senses
[edit] Kewda Attar
‘Creative Mind’: A cooling essence that cultivates creativity. Promotes the energy of the 1st & 2nd Chakras.
- It provides relive to the user when one suffers with insomnia
[edit] Jasmine Attar
‘Divine’: A vibrant fragrance, developing a sense of balance, confidence, attractiveness and mental stimulation. Promotes the energy of the 5th & 6th Chakras.
- Uplift moods
- Treating skin ailments
- Hypertension
- Stress
- Lessen depression
[edit] Khus Attar
Khus (Ushir) – ‘Cool Breeze’: A cooling and relaxing fragrance for establishing harmony between body and mind. Balances Kapha and Pitta.
[edit] Mitti Attar
‘Grounding’: An earthy fragrance that gives a sense of strength and support. Cultivates stability and a quiet mind.
[edit] Mix Flowers Attar
‘Valley of Flowers’: A wonderfully fresh, inspiring and attractive floral scent. Promotes the energy of the 4th & 5th Chakras.
[edit] Mogra Attar
‘Peace’: A calming fragrance that increases intimacy and friendship. Promotes the energy of the 4th & 5th Chakras.
[edit] Chameli Attar
‘Protection’: Increases vitality and creates a strong protective energy against disturbing influences. For Tantra. Promotes the energy of the 2nd, 5th & 6th Chakras.
[edit] Patchouli Attar
‘Walk in the Woods’: A warm aphrodisiac fragrance that invokes friendship and love. Promotes the energy of the 3rd & 5th Chakras.
[edit] Attar of Roses
Main Article: Rose oil
Attar of roses is essentially an oil extracted from the petals of various types of rose.
[edit] Trivia
Amongst the modern Indian dignitaries is former President Shanker Dayal Sharma, who is a connoisseur of ittar, Chameli.
Another President, Dr S Radhakrishnan, was fond of the light fragrance of Majuma.
Indira Gandhi used attar Heena in winters.
Andhra Ex-Chief Minister Chandrababu Naidu has a weakness for attar khus.
Naomi Campbell, the bewitching model, was seen trying out mehndi and attar.
Sonia Gandhi likes Attar Jasmine.
Ittars are also used by Hindu priests, which is given as prasad and sprinkled on the devotees.
[edit] References
[edit] See also
Fragrance and Flavour Development Centre Kannuj UP India [1] Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants Lucknow India [2]
