Hair coloring
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Hair coloring products generally fall into four categories: temporary, semipermanent, deposit only/demi, and permanent. All these hair color products, except for temporary color, suggest a patch test before application to determine if the client is allergic to the product. "Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair. This process is central to both permanent hair color and hair lighteners.
All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient as part of their ammonia or an ammonia substitute. The purpose of this is to:
- raise the cuticle of the hair fibre so the tint can penetrate,
- facilitate the formation of tints within the hair fibre,
- bring about the lightening action of peroxide.
When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer (usually hydrogen peroxide), the peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses through the hair fiber, entering the cortex, where the melanin is located. The lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks up the melanin and replaces it with new color.
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[edit] Temporary hair color
The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and, therefore, do not penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.
Acid dyes are used to coat on the surface of hair, since acid dyes have a low affinity to hair, thus can be removed after a shampoo. The penetration and color strength of temporary hair color can usually be improved by applying a bleaching prior to the application of the hair color.
Temporary hair color is available in various product forms including rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and others. This type of hair color is typically used to give brighter, more vibrant shades or colors such as orange or red, that may be difficult to achieve with semi-permanent and permanent hair color. This phenomenon is because temporary hair colorants do not penetrate the hair shaft itself. Instead, these dyes remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the follicle and can be easily removed with a single shampooing. However, even temporary hair coloring agents can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or damaged, conditions that allow for migration of the dye from the exterior to the interior of the follicle. While temporary hair color products hold a lesser market than semi-permanent and permanent agents, they have value in that they can be easily and quickly removed without bleaching or application of a different dye.
[edit] Semipermanent
Formulated to deposit color on the hair shaft without lightening it. This formula has smaller molecules than those of temporary tinting formulas, and is therefore able to penetrate the hair shaft. Has no developer, may be used with heat for penetration. It also lasts longer than temporary hair color, keeping intact up to 8-14 shampoos. They are great for hair that is damaged and fragile. Semi hair color has no Ammonia.
[edit] Demi Permanent
Companies like Compagnia Del Colore from Italy have found a way to use a permanent hair color for deposit only. This is done by mixing permanent hair color with low volume (usually a 7 volume developer) that blows off the ammonia from the permanent tube and deposits only into the hair shaft. A demi is a gentle permanent color used whenever you want to deposit color without lifting the natural pigment but with the deep penetration results of permanent hair color. Since they are gentle, they are perfect for tint-backs and colorpriming. They are also great for toning pre-lightened hair.
[edit] Permanent Color
Permanent Color is best choice for grey hair coverage. Has a oxidative dye that also uses ammonia and peroxide to lift & deposit the new color, going deep into the hair shaft. The use of ammonia opens the cuticle of the hair to penetrate the color pigments deep in the hair shaft.
[edit] Special effects
Special effects include highlighting and vivid, unusual hair colors such as green or fuchsia. Highlighting can range from temporary to permanent, using the techniques listed above and a special application process. The techniques required to apply highlighting can be difficult for an individual to perform upon him/herself. One can create looks that range from subtle highlights acquired during a day at the beach, to more dramatic looks, such as bold, chunky highlights.
The more exotic, bright dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. These are typically sold in punk-themed stores (such as comic book and music stores).[citation needed] Colors range from blood red to seafoam green. Many shades are blacklight reactive. Individuals with darker hair (medium brown to black) are advised to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application for the full effect of the color. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well, as the yellow undertones of blonde hair can make blue dye look green. These dyes are less permanent, and tend to "bleed" onto other fabric even when dry. Users should anticipate staining of light-colored pillows for a week or so after application.
[edit] Problems related to coloring hair
When coloring one's hair, one may consider visiting a professional hair colorist, as there are several mistakes a person could make, as well as some serious consequences.
The following are some of the problems that may occur as a result of applying hair color:
- Different color outcome compared to what was expected
- Breakage of hair strands
- Stain on skin from hair dye
- Lead acetate as a potential toxin.[1] (Lead acetate is the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such as Grecian formula[2])
- Development of some forms of cancer (including leukemia, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, bladder cancer, blood cancer, and multiple myeloma)[3][4][5]
- Allergic reactions due to the analine derivative and/or p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) found in permanent hair color.
[edit] Alternatives to Chemical Based Dyes
It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks [6].
Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair dyes.
There are also said to be non-toxic safer products that avoid the side-effects of chemical based dyes. The safer alternatives generally have fewer chemicals or are plant based and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options. However, these products typically do not last as long as chemical based dyes. [7]
[edit] Demi-Permanent
Uses a mild, creamy developer of a lower volume (to other products of same or similar composition), including but not limited to the dye used in textiles, sunscreen, rubber, and/or certain medications. These are also termed No-Lift Permanent or Deposit-Only . In general, there is no lift or lightening as there is no ammonia to act as a catalyst. With these colors you can add Red, Violet, Blue tones cover grey/white or go darker. These dyes last 15-25 shampoos.
[edit] Semi-Permanent
Formulated to deposit color on the hair shaft without lightening it. This formula has smaller molecules than those of temporary tinting formulas, and is therefore able to penetrate the hair shaft. Contain no developer or peroxide, and contain no ammonia. It is possible to cover graying shades of hair temporarily with this type of hair coloring, but be advised that it may wear off in 5-7 days. In addition, note that hair products labeled as semi-permanent may contain the toxic compound P-Phenylenediamine or other such products found in traditional hair color.
Henna is a plant that is also used for ayurvedic hair coloring. The red dye is commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin and is therefore semi-permanent, but it will wash out with time, generally a couple of months[8]. While "natural" henna is generally a deep red-color, variations exist. These variations, however, usually contain ingredients from other plants and even synthetic dyes.
Using a plant-based color, specifically henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a perm and other permanent hair color. Many people have the misconception that discoloration can occur on hair that has been previously tinted with henna and that hennaed hair cannot be curled. This is untrue, as long as pure imported body art quality henna is used; whereas store-bought "boxed" henna is often mixed with harmful additives, which can cause damage or discoloring to hair.
[edit] See also
[edit] References
- ^ FDA info concerning lead acetate
- ^ Government reference for Grecian formula's ingredients
- ^ Does hair dye cause cancer?. Cancer Research UK (20 July 2006). Retrieved on 2007-07-29.
- ^ DeNoon, Daniel J.. "Hair Dye Linked to Blood Cancer: Long-Term Use of Dark, Permanent Dye May Raise Lymphoma Risk", Web MD, January 26, 2004. Retrieved on 2007-07-29.
- ^ Begoun, Paula. Does Hair Dye Cause Cancer?. Paula's Choice. Retrieved on 2007-07-29.
- ^ The History of Hair Dye
- ^ Berger, Laurie (September 1998). Hair color to dye for: the good, the bad and the ugly on natural cover-ups - natural hair dyes. Vegetarian Times.
- ^ http://www.mookychick.co.uk/style/removing_henna.php
[edit] External links
- Askmags "Educational Website for Comsmetologists"
- Hair Color Live
- theHairColoringGuy
- How Stuff Works "How Hair Coloring Works"
- "Chemistry of Hair Color Stains"
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